Sure, we've all seen drop ceilings—in offices, of course, but also in a lot of houses with finished basements. Traditional drop ceilings consist of a suspended metal framework, or grid, and lightweight 'acoustic' tiles that simply lie in the grid. The grid is suspended from the floor or ceiling structure above by metal wires. The space between the two levels hides heating ducts, plumbing, and wiring.

1. Installing Armstrong Ceiling Grid
2. Installing Armstrong Ceiling Tiles

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Now there is a relatively new alternative for residences called a direct-mount ceiling. Ryan Rusher, of the Yankton, SD-based CeilingConnex offers the scoop on this affordable and easy-to-install product suitable for both new construction and remodeling. Rusher's company has been in business since August 2012. He estimates that direct-mount grids have been around since the early 1990s—a relative newcomer compared to drop ceilings.

Description

The name is a bit deceiving: The tiles of a direct-mount ceiling do not mount directly to the ceiling, but the grid does. As with a drop ceiling, individual tiles are laid into the grid and are not attached. The main difference is that the direct-mount ceiling grid attaches directly to the ceiling framing—by means of screws driven into the ceiling or floor joists above—rather than being suspended by wires.

Uses

Rusher says that the majority of his ceiling grids are installed as part of basement finishing projects. Basement ceilings in older homes can be a challenging issue since few of them reach 8 feet tall, and adding a suspended ceiling below takes up additional headroom. Most building codes require living spaces to have ceilings of at least 7 1/2 feet. Because a direct-mount grid is attached directly to the level above, with no intervening wires, no space is wasted.

Direct-Mount vs. Conventional Drywall Ceiling

Direct-mount ceilings also are an appealing alternative to standard drywall ceilings, for a few reasons: Fztvseries brooklyn nine nine.

• Accessibility: With a drywall ceiling, access to the area above the ceiling is difficult. If a pipe leaks or a wire needs to be replaced, nothing short of ripping out the drywall will do. With a direct-mount ceiling, access is as easy is lifting out a tile.
• Instant Coverage of Bad Ceiling: An existing drywall ceiling with minor cosmetic problems can be effectively covered up with a direct-mount system.
• Quick Installation: A direct-mount ceiling goes up faster and with less mess than a conventional drywall ceiling because no mudding or sanding is involved.
• DIY-friendly: DIYers install drywall ceilings all the time; it's not limited to the professionals. But it involves heavy lifting, and it's just no fun. By contrast, with direct-mount ceilings, everything is lightweight.

Types of Tiles

You can use any standard 2 x 2-foot or 2 x 4-foot tile with a maximum thickness of 3/4 inch. Many, but not all, tiles designed for drop ceilings work for direct-mount ceilings. As mentioned, drop ceilings have been around for decades, so it's easy to find a tile that suits your needs. Rusher recommends Genesis or Armstrong Easy Elegance tiles. Whatever you do, don't use drywall tiles, which are too heavy for a direct-mount grid.

Additional Tips

• For disguising the ceiling grid, Rusher says to purchase a ceiling tile that has relief, or dimension, to it, such as those from Genesis' Icon series. Flat tiles tend to highlight the grid.
• If an existing light fixture location conflict with the ceiling grid layout, it's best to move the light fixture, says Rusher. With exposed joists, it's an easy matter to move the light fixture a few inches over to avoid the grid. If ceiling drywall is in place, you'll need to cut out a small section of drywall to access the fixture's mounting fasteners.

Installing Armstrong Ceiling Grid

While you must always adhere to packaging instructions, this article will provide basic advice on the general process of installing ceiling tiles, which includes not only choosing a style and size, but also using an adhesive, furring strips, and planning for obstructions.

Selecting Tile

The majority of ceiling tiles are comprised of fiberboard, which is more or less a blend of wood/cain fiber and various binding solutions.

While most tiles are 1-square foot, they are sold in other sizes. The most common technical design for ceiling tiles is a tongue and groove style. You can also get them in special surface textures and seamless designs. Many homeowners prefer specially manufactured tiles which deaden sound, called acoustical tiles.

A sales associate at your local home improvement store can help you choose the right tile for your project.

Applying Tiles

Generally, you will see either nail/staple-applied tiles or adhesive-applied tiles. Use adhesive on smooth ceiling surfaces and nails/staples on rough surfaces.

3 Basic Rules on Cutting

Only use cut tiles along the parameter. Opposite tiles, meaning those across the room from each other, should match. You should also never use less than 50% of a tile.

Determining the Size of Border Tiles

Measure the distance between the walls. If it comes out to an exact multiple of 12, there is no need for smaller border tiles. Otherwise, add 12 and divide by 2 to determine the width of the border tiles. Do so in both directions.

Applying Tile With Adhesive

You must get the surface ready for the adhesive, especially paint surfaces. Make sure that the surface can support tile by applying several tiles around the ceilings and examining how well they stay after several days.

Make lines with chalk string to align the border tiles. Shape the first border tile and and fit it to the corner. When cutting the tiles, make sure you work on a flat surface and that the tile is face-up.

Dab adhesive in all 4 corners of each tile, dab 1 in the middle. Put the tile into place so that the flange is exposed and you can align the tongue in grooves.

Sometimes, even the ideal smooth surface will require a staple for extra support. Once border tiles are placed, fill the ceiling with uncut tiles. Once all of the tiles are placed, add molding to create a clean look

Installing Tiles on Wood Furring Strips

Use furring strips on rough surfaces. Mark the location of ceiling joists and attach the furring strips from joist to joist at a right angle.

Installing the Furring Strips

Align the second strip so that it rests between at the center of the strip and the width of the border tile.

The rest of the furring strips must be installed so that they rest at a parallel angle to the second strip you have installed. They must also be spaced 12-inches on center. Affix the strip by applying 8-penny nails. Use a carpenter's level to ensure that everything is aligned properly. Use scraps for the edges to support border tile.

Stapling Tiles to Furring Strips

Make lines using chalk string down the center of the furring strips. Use the lines as a guide to install the tiles. For the initial cuts, remove the side that is devoid of a wide stapling brim. As before, set the tiles to that the tongue and groove tiles can be put together.

Begin by applying border tiles, then fill the space with full-size tiles. Once it's all filled, add the rest of the border tiles. Apply molding to make a nice, clean finish for your project.

Tilling Around Posts or Pipes

Refer to the images to see how to cut the tiles to fit around plumbing and other fixtures. All one must do is slice the tile in 2 and trim the halves to fit around the obstruction. Always cut the tile while it is face up with a utility knife.

Installing Armstrong Ceiling Tiles

Information in this article has been furnished by the National Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors.